The core lasts we have designed and developed describe three different physiognomies. We have then worked on the “nose” of each last to provide a wider stylistic range of options.
Coherently with the brand’s bespoke origin and philosophy, they all feature a rather high arch support and heel containment.
Most people think that the dimensions describing a shoe are width and length. We, instead, can’t underline enough the importance of the instep. When the fit is proper, the faces of the two sides of the lacing are almost completely parallel, containing the foot properly and pushing the heel towards the heel box, thus preventing the foot from “slipping” in the shoe and towards the fore-foot (which would increase the contact of the toes with the toe box).
During his thirty years of shoemaking, Stefano Bemer developed 4 different types of lasts that merged technical labor with client taste. These four lasts can be broken into two styles, each having their own squared variation. The fifth and most modern of the lasts we offer is the T last which was developed by Tommaso Melani, CEO & Co-Founder of Stefano Bemer Srl.
The C and S Lasts
Stefano Bemer’s first and most elegant last, the C has a classic look and rather easy fitting. Width close to an E and average instep angle, the C last is still the root of most of the bespoke lasts we produce.
The S last is the square-toe version of the C last. The slight chisel nose gives shoes made on this last a professional and conservative look.
The J, JX, and JS Lasts
Stefano Bemer’s signature last is the J, that enhances elegantly and sensually the curve of the instep towards the ball line. The elongated nose, elevated instep, curvy line by the very ball line and slimmer shape from the beginning of the toe line to the toe box (sitting between a D and a E in the toe box, while a full E on the ball line) make this last contemporary (although designed more than 15 years ago) without diminishing its elegance.
The JS last is the soft square-toe version of the J last, and the JX features a sharp chisel toe box, highlighting the slim silhouette of the last and giving shoes made on this last a more aggressive look.
The T and TX Lasts
The T last has been conceived to provide an easier fit (especially to customers with a low instep) and a rather contemporary look, featuring the width of the C last blended with the length of the J last and a medium to low instep that allows the shoe to efficiently contain the arch and push the foot towards the heel box.
The TX last is the chisel-toe version of the T last. The sharp edges of the toe box make shoes made on this last a rather firm and masculine appeal.
The A Last
The last A stands for “Athlete”! Having quite a few professional athletes amongst our clients, more than once we have been facing the issue of a muscular foot with a powerful fore-foot structure.
The A last used the same generous ball line of the J last but increased the width in the toe box, still maintaining the arch support typical of our lasts, and slightly increasing the spring-toe, as we did on the T last. The instep grab is the one of the C last instead.
A guide to Size Conversion can be found at www.stefanobemer.com/sizing