Model Replica 1786
Model Replica 1786
An exact replica of the renown Russian Calf Oxford Shoes. Entirely hand-stitched, featuring a fiddle-back waist with our signature "violin" shank, it will be produced in 230 units, Made to Order only.
Model: Replica 1786
Color: Russian Reindeer
Stefano Bemer is proud to present 1786, the limited edition of 230 pairs ready to wear collection in in replica Russian reindeer leather, made in collaboration with Horween Leather.
In commemoration of 230 years of the wrecking of the ship Metta Catharina, where the renowned Russian reindeer leather was discovered, we have developed with Horween Leather a special calfskin that will bring you back to the Russian Empire time.
The shores of Britain have always been the haunt of seafarers for thousands of years. Today the coastline is littered with the remains of their activities; countless shipwrecks under the ocean still bear mysteries and treasures of their ages.
Among them is Metta Catharina, who departed from St Petersburg to reach the Mediterranean port of Genoa with a large load of cargo.
On a stormy night in December 1786, the ship was blown onto the dangerous underwater reef, and sank into 30 meters depth under the sea near Plymouth.
Metta Catharina lay forgotten for nearly 200 years until divers discovered its bell by accident in October 1973, and since then treasures on the ship could see daylight again, among them the legendary Russian reindeer leather.
The leather is marvelously supple and its durability has been enhanced by its two centuries of inundation in black mud. The color varies from a rich claret to a lighter sienna and most of the hides have a crossed hatched grain embossed by hand. It is also renowned for its ability to resist water and repel insects.
The method of tanning is highly complicated and time consuming, pre-tanning stages alone took up to six months. During the tanning stage, the hides, soaked in previously-used tanning fluid, were more or less continuously turned by hand for about four months. Then they were transferred to pits where they were soaked in water mixed with bark from willows, poplar, oak, and larch trees for about eighteen months. After that, they were cured, dried, beaten with mallets, pared with shaving knives, and then pulled over sharp-edged rings, which cut them with the fine cross-hatched scores that they were known for.
With respect to this legacy, Stefano Bemer initiated collaboration with Horween Leather, one of the most important tanneries in the world in the aim of reviving the leather of that age. With our co-efforts, we manage to deliver extremely similar color, texture, and features of the Russian leather.
Experienced shoemakers from Stefano Bemer then devoted themselves into the making of shoes.
In the pursuit of high standard as we always do, we make sure every step is made by hand, from lasting, welting, stitching, to the final finishing. Unique features of all handmade bespoke shoe will also appear on this collection, such as fiddle back and beveled waist.