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Lasts, Fit and Sizing

Four different types that merged technical labor with client taste
Stefano-Bemer

Most people think the only dimensions relevant to a shoe are width and length. But we cannot overstate the importance of the instep. We focus on the instep to ensure our shoes fit properly and that the faces of the two sides of the lacing are almost completely parallel, pushing the heel towards the heel box and preventing the foot from “slipping.”

Our ready-to-wear shoe lasts are also strongly intertwined with the realm of bespoke shoemaking.

The heel cup is precisely made with leather counters that shape around the client’s foot, and our arch support is significantly higher than other brands, reflecting our strong opinion that a shoe should also improve the wearer’s posture.

We have designed and developed four core lasts that describe three different physiognomies. We have then worked on the “nose” of each last to provide a wider stylistic range of options.

C
S
J
JS
JX
T
TX
A

Stefano Bemer’s first and most elegant last, the C has a classic look and regular fit. With its width sitting between a D and an E and an average instep angle, the C last represents the majority of bespoke lasts we make every year.

The S last is the square-toe version of the C last. The slight chisel nose gives shoes made on this last a professional and conservative look. The chisel is mild and gentle in the Essenziale and Classica line while in is enhanced by the sharp construction of the Tradizione line.

Stefano Bemer’s signature and most recognisable last is the J, which elegantly and sensually enhances the curve of the instep towards the ball line. The elongated nose, elevated instep, generous ball line (close to an E) and slim toe box give this last a contemporary look without diminishing its elegance.

The JS last is the soft square-toe version of the J last.

The JX features the same fit of the J last and a sharp chisel toe box, which highlights the slim silhouette of the last and gives shoes made on this last a more aggressive look.

The T last has been conceived to provide an easier fit (especially to customers with a low instep) and a rather contemporary look, blending the width of the C last with the length of the J last and a medium-to-low instep which allows the shoe to efficiently contain the arch and push the foot back towards the heel box.

The TX last is the chisel-toe version of the T last. The sharp edges of the toe box gives shoes made on this last a rather firm and masculine appeal.

A stands for “athlete”. This last was created to meet the specific needs of clients in the professional sports world who wanted a sharp-looking shape and elegant-yet-contemporary almond toe nose without compromising the volume of the ball line. This is perhaps our most comfortable last and recommended to any client who experiences snugness on the ball line.