Since the Seventeenth Century, Russia Calf has been considered the highest expression of the classic “Cuoio” leather for boots and shoes. Stefano Bemer, in collaboration with renowned tannery Horween Leather, are determined to make it immortal…
The shores of Britain have been the haunt of seafarers for thousands of years. Today the coastline is littered with the remains of their activities; countless shipwrecks under the ocean still bear the mysteries and treasures of their ages.
Among them is the Metta Catharina, who departed from St. Petersburg to reach the Mediterranean port of Genoa with a large load of cargo. On a stormy night in December 1786, the ship was blown onto the dangerous underwater reef, and sank into 30 meters depth under the sea near Plymouth.
The Metta Catharina lay forgotten for nearly 200 years until divers discovered its bell by accident in October 1973, and since then treasures on the ship have seen daylight again, among them the legendary Russian reindeer leather, AKA Russia Calf.
The leather is wonderfully supple and its durability has been enhanced by its two centuries of being submerged in black mud. The color varies from a rich claret to a lighter sienna and most of the hides have a cross hatch grain embossed by hand. It is also renowned for its ability to resist water and repel insects.
With respect to this legacy, Stefano Bemer initiated a collaboration with Horween Leather, one of the most important tanneries in the world, with the aim of reviving the leather of that age. With our co-efforts, we have managed to deliver extremely similar color, texture, and features of the Russian leather and, of course, the highest shoemaking expertise of our master craftsmen, expressed by our Tradizione Line.
The Tradizione Collection is the highest end of our line-up. Hand-lasted, hand-welted and sewn by hand, it features our signature narrow waist fiddleback "violino" solo and metal toe taps. It's the very exact correspondent of our Sixpence Bespoke, but made on one of our Ready to Wear lasts.
Part of our Tradizione Collection, these shoes come with individual wool dust bags, lasted wooden shoe trees, our leather maintenance kit with wax, small brush and spare laces and a real shoe-horn, all in a beautiful wooden box for proper storage.
Product Code: T6620V3
Material: Russia Calf Replica with patine
This shoe features a thin Vibram Rubber sole.
The S last, with its classic and regular fit, is the square-toe version of the C last. The slight chisel nose gives shoes made on this last a professional and conservative look. The chisel is mild and gentle in the Essenziale and Classica line while in is enhanced by the sharp construction of the Tradizione line.
Here is our Size Conversion Chart. If in doubt, here is a “Fitting Shoes” service: pick as many fitting shoes as you wish to try on and, when you receive them, we'll consult with you to assist choosing the right size and best fitting lasts for your foot, based on your feedback.